Unusually heavy pack ice with a thick layer of fresh snow stalled the L. M. Gould in her tracks to Palmer Station. Captain Bob made the decision to turn the ship around and we worried that this delay would seriously impact our expedition. Although two months sounds like a long time, it really is a short time to get all the sampling, bioassays and field experiments done that we have planned for this season.

We were very excited when the idea came up that we might visit another place and dive there while we wait for a change in weather to break up the pack ice. The place chosen was Deception Island.

This horseshoe-shaped island is the tip of a volcanic crater, which was used until the early 1930s was as a whaling station. Today some countries perform geological studies during the summer season, and tourist ships visit the island because of its interesting shape, history and the hot springs that allow an outdoor bath — a truly unique experience in the Antarctic.

However, we were more interested in immersing ourselves into the cold water — in a dive suit — and so we quickly started to check if we would have all the necessary gear on board and to clear it with the authorities. The bad luck of pack ice blocking our way to Palmer Station turned into a blessing when we found out that everything including tanks and an air compressor were on board! We entered a narrow channel called Neptune’s Bellows (a name appended by American sealers prior to 1882 because of the strong, gusting winds) in the late afternoon. The beauty of the place awed everybody on board.

Inside the channel we were protected from the tempest and all we needed was good weather for the next day to go for our first Antarctic dive of the season. Again we were lucky — the next morning started with bright sunshine and no wind.

Chuck, Bill and I were to go for the first dive, and while we were busy getting ready, Steve and Josh from the Gould crew got the Zodiac loaded with our gear and into the water. Once we all climbed down the Jacob's ladder alongside the ship, we stared our diving expedition toward some steep cliffs near the bellows.

A quick depth profile with hand-held sonar confirmed our guess that this was a location with a steep slope, a good indication for a wall where we usually find especially diverse communities. Suddenly we were anxious to get into the heavy gear — nearly 50 percent of one's body weight for some divers — for Antarctic diving! It was as if there had not been a year and a half since our last Antarctic dive.

After everybody was ok in the water, we dropped down and at first a moment of disappointment hit us when we saw nothing but black volcanic sand and gravel. We dropped a little deeper and found what we had hoped for — a wall covered with colorful algae, sponges, anemones, sea squirts and nudibranchs. We got our first very good and successful sample collection and, fully satisfied, started our ascent back to the surface.

What a surprise when, on our return, we found a lot of sea-worn whale bones with ribs as long as 6 feet! That was impressive, but we are very glad that today whales are protected and we can admire them from the ship when they surface and blow right beside us. What a successful first dive in Antarctica — again!